Can you speak and understand Spanish? “It’s not worth the risk; just go see it on Google”. “Are you crazy? Those border crossings are dangerous!”. Such were the questions I encountered from friends. Most intriguingly, the phrase: “I almost did that” kept coming up in conversation. Just then, at that moment, I could sense the lingering regret behind that word. I knew I had to give into my pilgrim soul, for as a little boy, I always dreamed of overland travel to far-off places. Explore and understand the lost civilisation.
How does one explain what one does and why one does it? I guess it is a blessing and a curse of the calling. With that thought, I embarked on an epic adventure of a lifetime to the land of the Mayas. This highly-developed civilisation flourished and vanished without a trace in the Central Americas.
"
Stop dreaming about your bucket list
and start living it.
- Annette White
20°
20'53.552262'' N
30°
88'8.152878'' W
Ek Balam
DAY: 3
GPS: 20,53.552262N 88,8.152878W
Three hours from Cancun and one hour from Valladolid
These amazingly well-preserved sculptures uncovered at Ek Balam are an interesting Mayan site. Dating from 100 BC to its height at 700-1,200 BC, it is unlike any other Mayan site. The main temple here at Ek Balam is impressive, both in size and architecture. It's a massive size of over 500 feet long and 200 feet wide, the frescoes and sculptures decorating this temple is an artistic marvel.
20°
20'53.552262'' N
30°
88'8.152878'' W
Ek Balam
DAY: 4
Three hours from Cancun and one hour from Valladolid
These amazingly well-preserved sculptures uncovered at Ek Balam are an interesting Mayan site. Dating from 100 BC to its height at 700-1,200 BC, it is unlike any other Mayan site. The main temple here at Ek Balam is impressive, both in size and architecture. It's a massive size of over 500 feet long and 200 feet wide, the frescoes and sculptures decorating this temple is an artistic marvel.
Cenote Zaci
The next afternoon I took a dip in another beautiful cenote, and I had it all to myself
My pale feet
It's incredible as the sunlight filters through the blue waters of Cenote Samulá
Right: A Mayan Warrior at the temple in Ek Balm
Far right: More ruins at Ek' Balam Archaeological site
El Castillo
El Castillo
Day 8
El Castillo|Chichen Itza
From crystal clear seas of the Caribbean to the deep underground caves of Central Mexico, my adventures saw me dive into the blue waters of secret centos in the Yucatán Peninsula and scale the new world’s most impressive pyramids.
I had the pleasure of the company of
Dr Santiago, who is a specialist in the Archaeology of the Americas
Uxmal is an ancient Maya city of the classical period
Temple of the Warriors
Chichen Itza (‘the mouth at the well of Itza’) is classified as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World and, in 1988, was enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
El Castillo (the Temple of Kukulkan) is the famous pyramid that dominates Chichen Itza's site and actually sits on another much older temple.
Day 10
Belize City
Belize
“Young man you know nothing about fishing.
I tell you, man, I have been fishing for over 40 years in these waters”
Edmundo Emanuel, 78
Baron Bliss Lighthouse
Baron Bliss Lighthouse in Belize City was established in 1885 on the former site of a Spanish fortress which was highly damaged after the Battle of St. George's Caye in September 1798
Guatemala
Tikal- The ancient Mayan citadel in the rainforests of northern Guatemala
I hiked through the thick, dense jungles of Guatemala, completing my excursion by looking down on the lost city of Tikal. Then crossing the border to Copán- an archaeological site of the Maya civilization in the Copán Department of western Honduras.
DAY:15
Tikal, Northern Guatemala
Tikal
An ancient Mayan citadel in the rainforests of northern Guatemala
20°
17'13.456502'
N
24°
89'36.698802'
W
Antigua
Where cultures blend and time stood still
Santa Catalina Arch at night
Santa Catalina Arch at night
Santa Catalina Arch
Volcano de Agua
Antigua, Guatemala. With crumbling churches set against the backdrop of monumental volcanoes
Bienvenidos!
Above the clouds is a bright blue sky; Their eyes tell stories that no words describe. Yet I am surprised to see smiles on their faces to greet strangers passing by.
Lago Atitlan
Lago Atitlan
Time to do nothing just idling in a hammock and admiring the perfect lake view. 50cts a beer, Pork Pupusas for dinner $2.20. The room by the lake $9.50. This is where I want to be, woke up the next morning to this, The view, priceless !!
Day 20
Lago Atitlan
Panajachel
The legend of Maximón
The next afternoon I walked in the Little backstreets to the home of Maximón, well at least the effigy of Maximón, also known as San Simon, a saint venerated in various forms by Mayan people. spooky but worth a photograph
The legend of Maximón
The next afternoon I walked in the Little backstreets to the home of Maximón, well at least the effigy of Maximón, also known as San Simon, a saint venerated in various forms by Mayan people. spooky but worth a photograph
El Salvador
Suchitoto
The town is set with cobblestone streets, and the beautiful Iglesia Santa Lucía church is in the centre. Laid-back, friendly and lovely people. They welcomed me with "Buenas" and a smile wherever I went.
I know what you were thinking. El Salvador is a country with a high crime rate; yes, it is, and you are right, but I felt pretty safe during my time here. So friends, experience this great town. I am already missing it.
DAY 26
Suchitoto, El Salvador
Not all those who wander are lost
J.R.R. Tolkien
"
Alone in the Woods
Hike to the Conchagua viewpoint
The lonely path to the viewpoint was covered with trees, and the wind brushed my face adding a little comfort to the hike to the top. It was hot and humid. An outstanding view of the Gulf of Fonseca and its islands is worth the trek.
Feel the magic of his creation from this mountain's top. Tomorrow will be an early start as I will be crossing into Nicaragua.
View from the lookout point at Conchagua
Die with memories, not with dreams
"
Day 31
El Tunco in El Salvador is a tiny off-the-beaten-path beachside town. Made up of just two streets, it's the surface paradise, but I am not here to surf. It doesn't excite me to watch the incredible sunsets ranging from golden orange to ethereal pink.
El Tunco sunsets are something to marvel at with the colossal ocean rock that used to look like a pig as the foreground is a real treat for the photographs.
El Tunco beach has its wild beauty; once you've been, you'll know what I mean.
1. Leaving El Salvador at La Union
3. Outstanding view of the Gulf of Fonseca and its islands
2. Perfect Morning at La Union, but sad to leave El Salvador
7. Six hours later The first glimpse of Nicaragua
4. Bridal path to the lookout point
6. Exhausted !!!!
DAY 33
Gulf of Fonseca
El Salvador to Nicaragua
8. Strong man Costello carrying luggage
9. Filling the landing card and Visa stuff at the boat pier - Nicaragua
5. Passing Honduras
Nicaragua
Laguna de Apoyo - Volcano Crater Lake
Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience
Paulo Coelho
"
It frightens me to imagine a monstrous mythical creature lurking underneath. How long could I hold my breath…. How deep could I dive…. and the unknown…. bright beams of sunlight pierce the deep blue waters somehow fear gives way to excitement, exhilarating.....
DAY 35
Apoyo Volcanic Creator Lagoon
Nicaragua
Costa Rica
The long road to Monteverde
I'm not an Adrenaline Junkie
I jump off the cliff into the unknown. My heartbeat slows down as I fall.
There is no adrenaline rush nor a high.
Just a twinkle in my toe & sparkle in my eyes.
I feel calm as I wizz past the canopy of trees.
I feel free like a bird in the sky.
Falling into the arms of the midday mist, then through the rainforest oh so green.
The angel whispers into my heart I got you, my child; it's going to be all right.
DAY 37
la fortuna, monteverde,
Costa Rica
Storm
I hear the Storm high above the mountain tops. It's coming my way over the ridge as the clouds change their form and hang heavily amongst the branches, leaving a trail of raindrops to warn us that more is on its way. I feel the calmness before the Storm.
Forty days of bright blue sky, I guess it was inevitable for a storm of this size, especially this time of the year; well, there is a reason they call it the hurricane season. The wind blew harder. The lightning splits the sky, heavens open. It's time to move on; goodbye, Monteverde.
DAY 40
Monteverde,
Costa Rica
Panama City
Panama
Men past forty
Get up nights,
Look out at city lights
And wonder
Where they made the wrong turn
And why life is so long.
- Ed Sissman
(1928-1976)
A delightful afternoon with a gangster
Ten years ago, gangs and stray dogs ruled the streets of Panama City's Casco Viejo, a neighbourhood that dates back to the 17th century. Those days are long gone.
Miguel Rivera is a former gang member now married with five kids and spends his time as a guide. He is quite a comedian! He was the highlight of the afternoon instead of the tour. He is funny, full of jokes and never has a dull moment. The gang's graffiti has been preserved as wall art. He takes me along the back alley and points to his hangouts and safe homes with bullet-ridden walls—stories about his life in the hood in the years gone by. As the clock ticks and my time ends, I drown my second Panamanian mojito and bid him farewell.
Saying Goodbye to Bella
My time spent in Panama City’s Old Quarter ( Casco Viejo )
One afternoon, the weight of the world seemed to hang heavy in the air of the neighbourhood. Yet, amidst the gloom, the sound of children's laughter echoed through the streets, breathing life back into the hood. Their voices intertwined Spanish with a sprinkling of English words, creating a harmonious symphony that drew me in. Most afternoons, I joined their joyful company, becoming a part of their vibrant world.
"What's your name?" they shouted, their tiny voices filled with excitement. "Cómo te llamas?" I smiled, touched by their curiosity. They affectionately called me Gringo, the brown Gringo from a faraway land. They cheered with delight as we played football together. In those moments, language barriers faded, replaced by the universal language of friendship and shared experiences.
Among the children was a special soul named Bella, whose charm was unparalleled. She captured hearts effortlessly with her big brown eyes, snotty nose, and chubby cheeks. As we played, she would give me a playful attitude, adding an extra layer of joy to our time together. Bella, the cutest of them all, left an indelible mark on my heart.
But as the sun began its descent, casting long shadows over the streets, it was time for me to bid farewell. Bella clung to me tightly, her embrace filled with an innocent intensity. With tears glistening in her eyes, she asked if I would return. Knowing that I couldn't fulfil her wish pained me to see her hopefulness. Sofley, I told her that I had to go to a faraway land where I belonged. And with a heavy heart, I stole one last glance at her precious face, capturing this image before her first teardrop fell to the floor.
Often, my thoughts drift back to those little streets, wondering what life holds for Bella and her friends. I wish you well, my little friend, and I hope all is well in the Panama end. Birthdays, Graduations and Proms may life unfold its finest gifts in the years to come. But deep in my heart, I know I will not see you again, so be safe Bella, be safe.
DAY: 41
The Brown Gringo
Form a faraway land
Panama City
Panama
Day 45
So this is where my journey ends. I am glad that this very spot that I am, at this very moment, is where I wanted to be when I was in the fifth grade. I wanted to come here and watch the ships go by. Yes, it's the Panama Canal, a 100-year-old engineering marvel and a dream come true to a boy so far away from home
The charming cobblestone streets and vibrant colonial buildings of Suchitoto, a town set in the mountains of El Salvador, captured my imagination of what life would have been in the old Americas.
I sailed across the Gulf of Fonseca to Nicaragua, the most beautiful border crossing ever. El Salvador to Nicaragua from La Union to Potosi, then a bus to Leon/San Salvador. I experienced the smoking volcanos of Costa Rica. While I travelled, I was disappointed to learn that Columbus was nothing more than a gold-hungry Spaniard who destroyed as he discovered.
I've journeyed on chicken buses, private vans, back pickup trucks, cycles, boats, and ferries. I walked for miles across each border crossing and finally into Panama. It has been a humbling experience. In my quest to understand the culture and its people along the way, I met and made new friends, some for life and others merely for the moment.
I have witnessed some of the most dramatic landscapes in the world and marvelled at the sights of golden sunsets and star-filled night skies of the Americas.
Over 8000 km later, I arrived in Panama City on a rainy and wet December morning, safe but thoroughly exhausted. One rucksack, three guidebooks and a mind filled with memories and no wish to say
" I almost did that !! ".
5th December 2016
by The Miraflores Locks
Panama Canel, Panama
" I almost did that "
is intended to elicit my wanderlust
“The biggest adventure you can take is to live the life of your dreams”